When discussing Russian headwear, winter trapper hats are often the first thing that comes to mind. While its earlier versions can be traced back to Mongol times, the Russian ushanka hat as we know it today originated in the USSR. In the 1930s, the Soviet Navy personnel were the first to receive an adapted version made of sheepskin and leather. Around 1940, the remaining military forces followed suit after the Red Army commissioned a complete redesign of winter uniforms.
As a result, the shapka (hat) ushanka was born. Its name comes from the Russian word for ears (ushi), which refers to the characteristic flaps. These flaps don’t just cover the ears; they also protect the back of the neck, cheeks, and chin when the drawstrings are tied in the open hat setup. Some models even come with extra-long flaps that can be fastened to greatcoat collars using extra buttons. This is particularly useful for troops serving beyond the Arctic Circle in Russia, where such wardrobe measures are rare.
Military ushanka hats for soldiers were initially crafted from a unique blend of acrylic fibers and sheepskin, designed to withstand the rigors of battle. In contrast, higher-ranking officers exclusively wore mouton-based hats, such as the sheared sheepskin officer hat. While the initial purpose of these hats was purely functional, furriers later began experimenting with other furs. Army orders eventually led to the creation of the first truly valuable ushankas made from Persian lamb. One such model, still used by Russia's Guard of Honor Company, combines Persian lamb with woolen cloth for economic reasons. As for full fur hats, they remain reserved for the likes of generals.
Outside the military domain, variation of ushanka styles is much broader, being available for literally any budget. From cheap faux fur and artificial leather types, affordable rabbit fur options to muskrat, beaver, and ultimately mink fur headpieces. Even President Gerald Ford could not resist getting the latter while on an official visit to Russia in 1974. Despite denoting somewhat different looks initially, the following terms are generally used interchangeably to identify the same kind of hat nowadays: aviator, trapper, and trooper. Whatever your own semantic preference may be, we advise investing in an ushanka made of high quality fur. It really is worth it!