Best Winter Hats for Men & Women

Whether you are looking for men’s or women’s winter hats, the following list should serve as a comprehensive guide on your best shopping options. We will mostly focus on stylish and practical hats handmade of real and faux fur. An important consideration when buying a formal or casual hat is face shape, so please always bear that in mind.

Trapper HatMink fur ushanka hat

Perhaps the most versatile of all winter headwear is the trapper hat. Thanks to its flaps, this type (known as ushanka in Russian), can protect not only your head but also ears, cheeks, chin, and back of the neck. Drawstrings allow for this trooper hat to be worn differently depending on how cold or windy it is outside. Most importantly, it suits both men and women. All you have to do is choose between faux fur and natural varieties. The latter vary greatly and include beaver fur, fox fur, mink fur, muskrat fur, Persian lamb, rabbit fur, and sheepskin.

 

Model in a Persian lamb ambassador hat

Ambassador Hat

The ambassador hat proves the fact that fashion is affected by recurring cycles. What used to trend in the 1960s Soviet Union among (mainly) Politburo members, is back in vogue now.  Karakul diplomat (pie) hats, are finding their way back into the wardrobes of many men that like to dress smart. Neither are such classic hats viewed as exclusively male accessories any more. Since 2015 the wedge hats have migrated from catwalks to heads of stylish women, who also try to improve the overall look by decorating the hats with gorgeous brooches.

Cossack Hat

Cossack kubanka hatCossack hats are often confused with trapper hats. In reality, the former comprise many styles worn by (surprise!) the Cossacks in Southern Russia and Ukraine. These are generally made of sheepskin and Astrakhan fur. The most common types are called kubanka and papakha.

Cossack papakha hat

Differences are many but the most important ones are height, structure, softness, and length of fur. Although color variations are limited due to the nature of materials, beautiful shades of brown and gray undoubtedly make up for this.

 

Fox Fur Hat

Keira Knightley in Doctor ZhivagoFox fur hats are probably the safest option for women, regardless of the face type. These are by far the lightest winter hats available on the market. In addition, they provide excellent warmth. If you would like to look fabulous out in the cold then your search is definitely over. Just pair the hat with a nice coat. Keira Knightley shows how this should be done.

Newsboy Cap

Leather newsboy capAnother case of resurrected fashion is the newsboy cap and its many incarnations. The style lives on 100+ years later. For those of you who are lucky to live in places where winters are mild or non-existent, a fisherman’s cap is a great option. If you are bored of common linen and woolen types though, consider caps made of genuine leather and Persian lamb. Finally, remember that these are very much unisex accessories nowadays.

 

 

 

How To Stretch Or Shrink Hats

One of the most common disappointments associated with hat purchases is imperfect fit. The fit is a vital consideration since it provides for comfortable wear even during prolonged periods of time. However, you could well find yourself in such an unpleasant situation upon failing to measure the head size correctly.

Antique wooden hat stretcherIf a hat turns out to be too small and you cannot exchange or return it due to a merchant’s policy or excessive restocking fees, there are two options. Find a local hatter that has an electrically-heated metal mold. Alternatively, buy a wooden hat stretcher for just over $10 and do it yourself. It is important to note that hats with more rigid structure – such as ushanka, Kuban Cossack, Moscow, and Leningrad styles – will give way up to a size above the original. Softer hats – including ambassador, papakha, Imperial, and shepherd styles – may well be stretched two sizes up.

Self-adhesive feltOn the other hand, if a hat runs one to two sizes large, attach self-adhesive felt strips to the lining. Alternatively, visit a furrier who could fix this by sewing a string into the hat’s structure all the way around the interior. You would then pull the string to adjust the size accordingly.

Unless a hat is three or more sizes below or above your true head circumference, a solution is always available.

Fur Care & Storage

Some fur hats initially go through a period of shedding if purchased brand new. This is particularly true of bespoke or custom made hats. It is a perfectly normal process that results in removal of loose strands left over from production and could be accelerated through shaking.

Hats made of real fur may only be cleaned from dirt and dust with extra soft brushes. Any residual moisture should be dried naturally outside or in a well-aired room, at a distance from any heat sources.

Once the cold season is over and you are ready to put your winter gear away, ensure that dry odourless insecticide is applied to the intended storage space first. This advice applies to coats, jackets, vests, and any other fur items as well. Canvas bags may also be used for additional protection from moths. Store hats on shelves and clothing on high-quality wooden hangers of suitable size. Always ensure there is ample room so that your clothing and accessories are preserved in their original shape and condition for as long as possible.

During prolonged storage periods, it is recommended to periodically air items made of genuine fur. When doing so in summer, use shade to avoid direct sunlight.

Lenin’s Favorite Cap

It is impossible to imagine Vladimir Lenin outside with an uncovered head. Such is probably the image engraved on the memory of anyone familiar with early Soviet history. Leader of the Russian communist revolutionary movement is most known for wearing a woolen cap with a distinctive peak.

Vladimir Lenin in MoscowPrior to his emigration, Lenin favored bowler hats, as confirmed by some 1905-1907 archive photographs. Those would be shortly swapped for a straw boater later in Paris. However, the cap, popular among the German working class, ultimately accompanied him back to Russia in 1917, staying on as an indispensable item of personal wardrobe until the very end. As a result, it is a challenge to find a monument of Lenin not wearing a cap. At times, he was even perpetuated clutching a second one. Perhaps, a security in case the main item gets blown off at a rally.

Interestingly, Armenia, with some prior history of hat-making, would subsequently supply the entire Soviet Union with similar caps. Local artisans were known for producing only the best kind. Taking care of literally each Armenian man (and the neighboring Georgians for good measure) a stereotypical image of local men was created inadvertently.

Lenin Style Karakul Winter CapHat choice is a very personal matter. It depends on many factors, such as head size, face shape and hair style. If newsboy or flat caps and their multiple varieties suit you, we suggest to consider investing in our own version of the Lenin cap. Made of real Persian lamb with cotton lining, it is a definite upgrade over what Mr Lenin used to wear. We also produce leather caps of different styles to provide a wider selection.

Russian Hats on Movie Sets

Join us today on a brief journey through the history of Russian winter hats in film-making on both sides of the Atlantic. Given their originality, style and pure beauty, it is no wonder that costume designers consider such headwear when shooting a scene. However, there is obviously no escape when a movie follows Russian history and culture.

Yul BrynnerCreating a chronological order, we will start with the 1962 drama Taras Bulba that is loosely based on the eponymous short novel by Nikolai Gogol, an influential forerunner of the Russian literature. The film’s main character, played by Yul Brynner, wears a traditional white Cossack papakha. This particular hat is made of sheepskin and is very soft. Since the material is natural, shade variations are very common.

Doctor ZhivagoMoving just three years ahead, we encounter the first Hollywood screening of Doctor Zhivago. The drama is based on the world-famous novel by the 1958 Nobel Literature Prize winner Boris Pasternak. Stars Omar Sharif and Julie Christie are seen wearing sheared sheepskin and fox fur hats.

Telly SavalasIn 1969, the world met a new James Bond villain in another spy film titled On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Infamous Ernst Stavro Blofeld, played by Telly Savalas, wore brown Astrakhan fur ambassador hat with a matching collar on a trimmed overcoat. This is a primer on how to pull of a truly smart and elegant look.

Arnold Schwarzenegger

Despite being filled with clichés, we cannot pass on mentioning Arnold Schwarzenegger in the 1988 action motion picture Red Heat. What was probably intended as a quality mouton policeman ushanka, looks more like a faux fur replica.

Sean Connery in The Hunt for Red OctoberA much better job was done by costume designers in 1990. Playing the role of a Soviet submarine captain, Sean Connery accurately demonstrates wardrobe of the highest ranking Navy officers of the time. In The Hunt for Red October, he wears a mouton ushanka hat that is mixed with genuine leather on the outer side in open hat setup. This design is still used in the modern Russian Navy due to its particular suitability for humid environment.

Keira Knightley in Doctor ZhivagoAnother version of Doctor Zhivago hit the television screens in 2002. Playing in British miniseries directed by Giacomo Campiotti, Keira Knightley made a kubanka hat look even better. Her co-star, Hans Matheson, wore a hat that resembled a classic Cossack papakha in style. As far as we can tell, sheared beaver fur was probably used instead of the more traditional lambskin. Rightly so, given that the action took place deep in the Siberian territory.

Harrison Ford in K-19: The Widowmaker

Same year, K-19: The Widowmaker military drama premiered. Just as Sean Connery did a decade before him, Harrison Ford plays a nuclear submarine captain. This time though, it looks to be a Persian lamb trooper hat. Albeit a departure from formally prescribed uniform, the hat is still an excellent choice for cold and windy conditions that are present at sea.

Once again travelling across the Pond, we Sergey Bezrukov in Admiralexamine the Russian Civil War drama Admiral released in 2008. In particular, Sergey Bezrukov, as General Vladimir Kappel, wears a traditional Cossack papakha hat. Made of black sheepskin, this appears to be a very accurate copy. The same could be said about the movie in general. Anyone interested in this period of Russian history should definitely consider watching the film or the accompanying miniseries.

Keira Knightley in Anna KareninaIt is impossible to list all instances of Russian fur hats appearing in motion pictures. Therefore, we will finish this piece off with the 2012 adaptation of Leo Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina. Keira Knightley appears here even more stylish in a silver fox fur hat with a matching scarf.

Ushanka – Iconic Russian Trapper Hat

Black Persian lamb ushankaWhen it comes to national stereotypes, it would probably be fair to say that winter trapper hats are the first to come to mind when Russian headwear is a topic. Although its earlier versions were many and could arguably be traced back to the Mongol times, the Russian ushanka hat as we know it today did originate in the USSR. In 1930s, the Soviet Navy personnel were the first to receive an adapted version made of sheepskin and leather. The remaining military forces followed suit around 1940 after the Red Army had commissioned a complete redesign of winter uniforms.

Grey Persian lamb ushankaAs a result, shapka (шапка, hat) ushanka was born. Its meaning comes from the Russian word for ears (уши [oo’shi]), which refers to the characteristic flaps. However, these do not cover just the ears. As a side benefit, back of the neck, cheeks, and chin could also be protected when draw strings are tied in the open hat setup. Certain models come with extra long flaps that can even be fastened to greatcoat collars using extra buttons. This applies to the hats worn by troops serving beyond the Arctic Circle in Russia. Few other places on Earth require such wardrobe measures.

First military ushanka hats for soldiers were made of a special blend of acrylic fibers and sheepskin to make them particularly durable in battle, whereas higher ranks enjoyed mouton exclusively. An example of Brown Persian lamb trooper hatthe latter is the sheared sheepskin officer hat. Despite producing purely functional headwear in the beginning, furriers subsequently started to experiment with use of other furs. Army orders led to the creation of first truly valuable ushankas made of Persian lamb. One such model was intended for and is still used by the Russian Federation Guard of Honor Company. These mix Persian lamb with woolen cloth for economic reasons. Full fur hats, once again, are intended for the likes of generals.

Gerald FordOutside the military domain, variation of ushanka styles is much broader, being available for literally any budget. From cheap faux fur and artificial leather types, affordable rabbit fur options to muskrat, beaver, and ultimately mink fur headpieces. Even President Gerald Ford could not resist getting the latter while on an official visit to Russia in 1974. Despite denoting somewhat different looks initially, the following terms are generally used interchangeably to identify the same kind of hat nowadays: aviator, trapper, and trooper. Whatever your own semantic preference may be, we advise investing in an ushanka made of high quality fur. It really is worth it!

Papakha Hat – Special Cossack Symbol

Officer papakha hatThrough the centuries, papakha (or papaha) has been among essential attributes of the Cossacks. Its value is famously mentioned in Poltava by Alexander Pushkin. Considered inviolable, the hat could only be given away upon death. For this reason, knocking it off a man’s head would be viewed as a grave insult and a challenge to a duel. However, an owner’s act of throwing his hat down would signify a bet on his own life.

In the Russian Empire, a military regulation allowed for mass heroism decorations to be attached to hats driving their value even further up. Actively serving Cossacks also used to carry small icons sewn into lining, which allowed them to pray anywhere, be it in a field, at a battle front, or during a march.

Russian CossacksDuring peacetime, the hat played a very important role in a Cossack’s civic life. The hat denoted legal rights of a man as the elder of his family. Hats of fallen Cossacks would be returned to their homes to be placed in the prayer corner signalling protection from God thereon. Papakha hats served a major role in matchmaking and weddings as well.

Kuban Cossack hatAlthough Cossack fur hats generally take the form of a papakha, their shape can vary greatly. The main distinction is between rigid and soft hats. While the former are more structured and generally made of Persian lamb, the latter variety is best achieved through the use of sheepskin with its characteristic long curls. Kubanka is another major type that is known widely across the former Soviet states. It is lower but also of a more rigid and structured variety. As the name suggests, it originates from the Kuban Cossacks.

Ambassador – Essential Winter Dress Hat

Churchill, Roosevelt and StalinIf there is one style of winter dress hats to single out it would certainly be the ambassador. Originating in the Soviet Union more than 70 years ago, it had quickly become the favorite among the ruling elite. Famous Yalta Conference picture shows Winston Churchill wearing one. Later on, Soviet General Secretaries Nikita Khrushchev, Leonid Brezhnev, and Mikhail Gorbachev could not resist the temptation of donning many kinds of such timeless headwear. Eventually, the general public were allowed to indulge in showing off as well. The hat became a total success. So much so that people lovingly nicknamed it the pie or ship hat associating its form with the respective objects.

Black ambassador hatIt must be noted that the style initially split into two main branches. Mainly, the difference lies in the presence of a false brim or an additional outer layer at the base of the hat that serves not only a decorative purpose but also makes the hat more rigid. Traditionally, both types do not include foldaway ear flaps. However, due to popular demand, we now offer this as an option made of thin woolen cloth that also covers a part of the neck.

Leonid BrezhnevMost importantly, classic look can only be achieved with a diplomat hat made of Persian lamb, although other options (such as mink and faux fur) are available. When it comes to color variations, you will most likely be selecting between black, brown, and grey. Final decision will ultimately depend on your wardrobe. So what is it going to be for you today – a Gorbachev or a Brezhnev, as we call them ourselves these days? You are also most welcome to inquire about a matching collar, scarf, or even full coat.

Measuring Head Size

Head measurementWith over ten years of experience producing handmade bespoke winter hats, we are positive that the most important factor in buying a hat is the size. If a customer does not already know it, we always suggest using services of a local professional. In case this is not possible, a tape measure could be used. Wrap it snugly around the head just above eyebrows and ears. Use our chart to convert the measurement to a hat size or simply mention the result in inches or centimeters to your preferred furrier.